Tuesday, 6 August 2019

Russia - An Immersion into Art, History and perhaps Vodka


Id like to share insights first on the application for the Russian Visa.

Time to receive the visa - 15 days

However, there is a fast track option. You just have to pay extra. Secondly do not pay additional charges for sms, since you already get email updates on the Passport status. Its a scam of vfs.

You can apply directly to the Russian consulate if you get an appointment or through VFS. If you go through Vfs, there is again at additional charge other than the visa. That is the difference.

For Russia :

Documents to Submit:

1) Flight Tickets

2) Russia Invitation Letter - Apply here. www.visatoruss.com . Its more for Indian citizens. I do not know why though. You can do dummy bookings of hotels and cancel later. However please ensure your name is written as in your passport and the same colour copy print out should be there to be submit. A copy or a black and white print will not be accepted.
3) Passport Copy
4) Photo
5) Passport

They dont take the hotel details or the medical/ travel insurance documents.

Moscow.

Time of Travel - July

Mumbai to Delhi - Domestic Flight

Delhi to Moscow - Aeroflot.

I thought flight was very long. Also I had a lot of delays. I got lucky that both my flights got delayed else Id probably make it to Delhi and not to Moscow. Tip : Keep some good layover time in between flights so you dont miss on your international flight.

Hotel - Marriot Moscow City Centre Courtyard.

Location - Average. Its a 10 min walk from the Red Square. But I prefer staying in locations which are bustling as soon as you step out of your hotel, so I would suggest to stay on the tversaky street, and not pick this hotel. Metro is also at a distance of 10-15 mins walk.

However the hotel service and the exchange rate were the plus points.

Travel from Airport to Hotel .

Download Yandex Taxi or Uber Russia or GETT Taxi.

It costed me 800 roubles from airport to city centre.

You can take an aeroexpress if you are alone. It might be cheaper for single person travel.

Money Exchange - My hotel gave me a good rate so I changed at the hotel or the best rate is at tversaky street 24 hours exchange place.

You can buy a sim card from the airport. I bought Tele 2. Unlimited data for 700 roubles. I was there for 10 days. It was perfect.

Alternate Hotel Option

Hotel Metropol - We stayed here on the way back from Karelia. It is the best location. Metro is close. shopping is close. Food is close. Red square is close. What else can you want?

Pick your location or apartment somewhere close to this hotel, if this hotel does not fit in your budget.

Things to do in Moscow:

1) Explore Arbat Street

Its a nice and fun street. Can visit during evening hours. Music cafes and Lot of entertainment on the street.

Its popular to buy souvenirs. Its reasonably priced.

Came out on the other end and came out on the street of The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Russia which accounts for one of the seven stalins skyscrapers in moscow.  Then walked to Pauls Bakery and had the best dark hot chocolate.

Amidst Flora and Fauna - Walk to Arbat Street from Marriot

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs : One of the Seven of the Stalin skyscrapers



Cant Stop | Wont Stop - Day Dreaming of Hot Chocolate at Pauls

2) Saint Basils Cathedral, Red Square,  Strelka Bar, Christ the Saviour Church  and the Statue of Peter the Great.

We took a metro from Smolenskaya from arbat street on the way back to get down at the Metro Stop Ploschad Revolvytsii. Got off at the metro station and explored Cathedrals on the way to the Red Square. Walked to Saint Basils Cathedral and Red Square. Walked around the GUM Departmental Shops Area and walked back to the hotel. Its a straight walk from the Red Square to our Hotel.


Show Stopper - Saint Basils Cathedral

In the evening booked a Yandex Taxi and went to Strelka Bar. Try going there during sunset. Its a beautiful scenic setting across the Christ the Saviour Church


Chasing Sunsets - View from Strelka Bar - Christ the Saviour Church


On your way to Strelka, if going by a cab, can spot,The Peter the Great Statue which is a 98-metre-high (322 ft) monument to Peter the Great, located at the western confluence of the Moskva River and the Vodootvodny Canal

After that we walked home from there exploring the city by night. Its quite a long walk. Almost half an hour. But a city is best seen on the foot. Also, we couldve taken the metro but we were still getting our bearings and direction sense around Moscow.


2) The Kremlin, Saint Basils Cathedral, Armoury, Diamond Fund, Lenins Mausoleum, Shopping Mall at Okhotny Riad, Zaradye Park

Next day we kept it only to view the Kremlin and its multiple cathedrals, museums. Thats what you aim to visit during your tourism to Moscow.

Note : Please note that the ticket office is at one end. If you walk to the red square you will have to walk all the way back to the ticket office which is at least a km walk so to and fro is almost 2 kms. so just navigate better so you do not waste time walking up and down.

Secondly, one can book tickets online. However by the time I looked it up online it was all sold out so I had to go purchase it physically.


We spent the whole afternoon in the Kremlin exploring the cathedrals in the square.

Exploring Kremlin Square - It has a couple of cathedrals and Ivans Tower. 


NOTE: Buy tickets for the armoury and diamond fund before hand because there are long queues outside while buying the tickets. Or book it online. You will have to advance book it online too as it gets sold out online too.

I got lucky. I just went to the armoury section inside the Kremlin and purchased the tickets right there, else I would not have had the opportunity to go see it.

This is outside the Kremlin Square - Just a red building that I really liked. It is operated by the government or the diplomats.


Outside the Kremlin Square - You can find the Okhotny Shopping Mall right behind this structure.

I Skipped going inside the Diamond Fund. It wouldve just been more diamonds on display. Not my kind of a thing.

You must visit Lenins mausoleum. I missed out on it because it was closed that day. I had other days to go visit but I skipped it.

Then we went to the shopping mall of Okhotny riads. Its right underground in front of the red square. Perfectly placed to shop.

Went to an Italian restaurant Gusto for lunch.

Saw Anil Kumble - Celebrity Sighting. He used to be a cricketer of the Indian Team.

Then we walked after lunch to Zaradye Park - Definite must go go. Its a modern park. they have activities such as soaring. I reached and it was full but I have done it before in Disney Land. Its an amazing experience so must go.

Look Closely - You can see the Red Square, Saint Basils Cathedral and a Stalins Skyscraper. Id hang here more if I had the time - Zaradye Park

I honestly do not know how to hail cabs still in Russia and how does the pricing work, because it was easier to book a yandex, as the cab drivers dont understand English.

Moscow to Saint Petersburg

One must even book train tickets in advance. Maybe July is peak season. But I was finding it hard to book tickets online for a train to st. Petes on an economy class.

Try booking it earlier, because it is always full and no places left or pay a premium to travel. Not worth it. Choose to travel by train and not a flight to st petes. Its the same price. However, Advantages of going via train than a flight is that one saves on time, a railway station is closer than the airport and No restriction on the luggage allowance.

Luckily, found two tickets and took an  Early morning train to Saint Petersburg. Train station is mostly the leningradsky station in Moscow and arrives at Ploshad Vosstaniya metro station in St. Petes.

http://eng.rzd.ru/ - Book the tickets here. No commission fees.


Saint Petersburg - 4 days .

We booked ourselves in an apartment at rubeinstein street. It was walking distance from the station, but with 3 luggages we'd rather book ourselves a cab.

Apartments Anton Rubinstein at Anichkov Bridge. Amazing apartment Space. I do not know how the other rooms were but our apartment was huge and a small kitchenette with microwave oven and kettle and mini fridge were provided. The bathroom was huge with a bath tub and a storage room.


Long french windows. Queen bed and sofa bed. And facing the rubeinstein street.

Apartments Anton Rubeinstein at Anichkov Bridge


Value for the booking price. Contact Dmitry . He is the owner. The number i s +79213055558. He was very helpful. Since russian language is a hindrance. He spoke very good english and helped us around in any questions , if necessary .

However, I would book somewhere closer to Kazan Cathedral the next time, because it is more centrally located to tourist sites and more vegetarian meal options restaurants. Everything is a 5 min walking distance from Kazan Cathedral. It is so centrally located.


Kazan Cathedral 

Though our apartment was only a 10 min walk from Kazan Cathedral, however it seems a long walk after a long day.

We were really tired after just landing in Moscow then rushing into St. Petes by an early morning train. So we decided to keep it low key and Took a hop on hop off tour. 

Tour Operator - City Sightseeing Tours Red Bus. You can locate them on the streets of Nevsky Prospect. They are a couple of tours. You can pay on the bus. They give you a receipt.

First day, we Didn’t get off anywhere. We did the red and the green route. Just saw all the sites and heard the history in the red bus tour. It actually covers all the tourism spots. Definitely consider it. Then decide how you want to plan your next 3 days and which places would you like to stop at.

On the first day, we explored the Kazan Cathedral, gostiny dvor, Church of Savior of spilled blood and Mikhailovsky Garden


SAVIOUR OF SPILLED BLOOD CHURCH


Hot chocolate - Surf’s Coffee  - Very chilled vibe. You can go work or just have coffee

Biblioteka - this was pure chocolate indulgence.

Lunch - Vietnamese restaurant

Dinner at Marceli’s - Being a vegetarian I would skip this place, but its very popular. The veggies are very fresh.

In the night , took a boat from anchikov Fontanka embankment for watching draw bridges. They promised two but we saw only one. Must go watch drawing the bridges. Can even sit at the embankments of the bridges to watch them. There is a schedule / timetable of the bridges time.

Timing - 12.10 am boat ride. Reach before so you can book yourself a seat. Also layer up, its freezing on the water. 

Tickets for 800 rubles.


Day 2 - it was raining so kind of a slow day.

We went to Paul and Peter’s Fortress. Honestly I would skip going inside the cathedral. I didn’t find it exceptional. It’s just good to take a picture from hop on hop off.

Paul and Peters Fortress



We explored St. Isaacs Cathedral. We didnt end up going inside as it is shut on Wednesdays. However we did climb up the stairs up the colonnade in St Isaacs Cathedral to take in the view of Moscow.


St Isaacs Cathedral
Climb the colonnade to see the rooftop view.

























Lunch at a vegan restaurant Ugrop.

Amazing food

























Shopping:

1) ZARA - 3 story mall on Nevsky Prospect.
2) La Galeria Mall - All the brands
3) Gostiny Dvor - For, tourist stuff
4) Fancy Mall opposite Kazan Cathedral - Expensive russian brands

Ate dinner at the food court in La Galeria - Pitas House - Needed a change with some falafel.

Day 3 Exploring Nevsky Square, Hermitage Museum, General Staff Building, Atlantis Statues

Walked the nevsky square from our apartment till the palace square.

Palace Square
Today we started our day really late. Spent the whole afternoon at the Hermitage. Visited the General Staff Building as well as the main museum palace square Atlantis statues.

Alexanders Pillar

The Hermitage - Winter Palace
Note : Every third thursday of every month, there is free entrance in the museums at the Hermitage.

HERMITAGE -  It is a beautiful palace with beautiful adorned rooms full of opulence and richness.







Lunch at Namaste

Ate Russian dessert at Ceceps at Nevsky Prospect - Tried a russian delicacy - definitely must try the napolean cream cake.

Day 4 Metro Tour of the Red Line, Peterhof Gardens - Summer Palace, Cinselli Circus, Rubeinstein Street

We did the metro tour. Suggestion - take the red line . I only saw the metros onward vladirmksky and all the metro stations are beautiful until avtovo

Decorated Metro Pillars

Most beautiful Metro Station at Avtovo - saint Petersburg. The pillars are covered in glass.


I took a metro until The last stop. Got off and took K343 mini bus to reach the summer palace of Peter.

You can access upper Gardens through this route but it can be skipped.

Lower gardens fountains are much prettier so must check out the lower gardens and fountains. Also must take the grand palace tour. It’s beautiful.
Grand palace tour - 1000 rubles
Lower garden entrance - 900 rubles 


We took the hydrofoil back to the city from the lower gardens. It costed us 950 rubles. If you only want to do the lower gardens then you must take the hydrofoil to and fro from admiraltsky.

Lower Garden Fountains - Peterhof Palace

Upper Garden Fountains

Then we did an early dinner at Terassa. Must go. Restaurant should be on your list.

It has an amazing view as well as food. It is right next to the Kazan Cathedral so do drop in here for lunch or dinner. Its yum.

Then we went for the cinselli circus. Book your tickets in advance. You don’t want to miss a circus. It was fantastic.

We explored rubeinstein street. It’s buzzing for the night life.

Went to this bar . Amazing cocktails and amazing cream cake. Loved the pastry! It was delish! The place is called geo-rest. The menu for the food also looked good.

OH MY GOD! IT WAS THE BEST| LOTS OF CREAMS AND NUTS AND SESAME SEEDS



You do end up walking around the rivers and embankments.

I honestly didn’t feel the need to do any more river cruises since I had already done the drawbridge tour in the night and had taken the hydrofoil in the day.

  
Someone suggested to eat this. I missed out but try it if you do get a chance.
  • Eat crumpets Soviet-style in St. Petersburg’s trademark cafe (on Bolshaya Konyushennaya street)

Walk around the city on foot and see as many places as you will.

Thanks to the bus tour. It covered a lot of places which you didn’t necessarily have to step down to see it. A bus view was perfect. 

Few other places to eat as suggested. I havent gone there but you could use it.

Places to eat - Tbiliso, Jiva Burgers
Things to eat - Khachapuri, Chacha
Duo Asia 
Subzero 
Birch


20th July.

Took an early train from St Petersburg to Petrozavodsk. Booked it on rzd. Then took a cab on yandex to the hotel. Petrozovadsk is a small town. Easily walking distance on foot.

Reached by 12 pm. 

Hotel Karelia- Hotel with the lake view.
Thats the view.

Hotel Karelia
There are other hotel options.

Frigate also has a lake view. You can check it out.

Breakfast with a view


I had a potato and cottage cheese georgian pastry from Frigate . I liked the potato cake.

Had to rush to take the last ferry out to kizhi islands at 1.30 pm from Petrozavodsk

We got a 20% discount on the ferry ride because of staying at hotel karelia.

Its a one and a half hour ferry ride.

Bought tickets to Kizhi Poghost on arrival. Walked around the village.

Its green grass blue skies beautiful landscape. If you like nature definitely visit the island.

Walking into a fairytale : Kizhi Poghost
Kizhi Poghost - A Closer View
Walking and Exploring the Kizhi Pogohst
Pictures are not enough - Kizhi



Kizhi Island Windmill
It is made of wood. I wont to emulate the same in India

Tried to walk around the village area, its all the same so can be skipped or if you enjoy riding a bike hire one and do that.

Its a beauty - Serene.
Village Walk












Handicrafts in the Village

Note : The ferry outgoing time on my ticket was 7 pm. If it says 7 pm you can only take the ferry back at 7 pm not earlier not later. However this was the last ferry out.

There was One cafe out there. And The cafe had one veg option - potato pancakes and some hot capuccino.

Reached Petrozavodsk at 8.15 pm.

Walked around the embankment. Beautiful landscape view of Lake Ladoga. Then went for dinner to a vegan restaurant. Yum food. but lost in translation since the menu was only in Russian so ordered only two things but it was amazing. The restaurant name was Pure Taste and it meant it.

Then walked back to the hotel from this restaurant, watching the sunset in the town. It was stunning. Ate a meal at the hotel too. Some soup and more salad. Got a birthday cake and tea compliments of the hotel since it was my moms birthday.

Next day, woke up went for a swim and sauna. Skippable. The pool is so tiny. Couldn’t get a massage since it was all booked out.

Walked to the city centre looking for a tour to Ruskeala national park.

Ate lunch at deja vu - salads and bread and orange juice.

Walked to the hotel Peter Inn near the station. Booked a cab from peter Inn. Left at 3 pm in a taxi to go to Ruskeala National Park which is at a distance of 3 hours from Petro.

The taxi ride was 7500 roubles including tip to and fro. Peter Inn was reasonable with the taxi rates. Hotel Karelia quoted us 9450 roubles one way  + waiting time additional. Seriously!

For me, Ruskeala was average.  2 hours were more than enough. More so because I have travelled before to various lakes and they have been prettier ,bluer and so this was okay compared to those.

I believe Bhedaghat in India has a marble quarry with a lake. It is stunning. That is a must see.

By the time, we were leaving from there, the cafes shut at the park so no food options at the park after 8 pm. Also there was no vegetarian option. You could find non veg in one cafe.




We then reached our hotel and ate our meal there. Our hotel serves 24/7. A limited menu.

Next morning, woke up - took a taxi to the airport. Tiny airport. Smallest one I have ever been to.

Petrozavodsk airport


We had already paid for extra check in. However regular cabin baggage is not cabin baggage for Aero Pobeda. It is a tiny small sized handbag so we had to pay extra 1000 rubs for checking in one more bag.

It was an hour and a half flight from Petrozavodsk to moscow. We landed at VKO Airport. Booked a taxi yandex for 800 roubles to Metropol hotel in Moscow.

Best location and great hotel to be at.

Went for lunch to this vegan restaurant Jagannath. My mom hated it. We dont do buffet lunches. 

It was already evening so took a metro to Tsariynitso. Beautiful fountains and beautiful architectural site. Must go to. Museum was shut till we reached.  Ate dinner at the Cafe.
Dinner was tuscan salad and bruschetta.


Tsariyinitso Palace and museum



Watched fountains against the play of lights in the night. That was a beautiful sight too.

Musical Fountains


We tried to go see the Kolomenskeye castle but it was too late. I believe gardens also shut at 10 pm. So please check the timings.

Next day.  Walked around the Novodevichy convent from outside.

Walked till Luzhniki stadium. it has adventure activities. Can do, if not pressing on time. 

Then took a cable car form there until Sparrow hills. Reached the observation deck. Saw moscow city from the observation deck . SAW THE moscow university centre. one more of  the seven stalin skyscrapers.

Took a cab from there to go to radisson hotel to eat at Buono. Okay average food but we got vegetarian risotto so that was a plus.

Great view of the city from Buono. Got to see another stalins skyscraper Ukraina Hotel.

The modern architecture of Moscow


Then took a taxi to Gorky park. Definitely skippable.  If you are living there then its a great place to hang out with friends or a group of people with small fountains, activities and beanie beds to laze on.

Then Took a cab to bunker 42 restaurant - must go for it.
Bunker 42 -Soviet

After a heavy lunch I could eat only a potato pastry and the cream napoleons cake and had a vodka flavoured shot. Definitely can go to this place for food. Lot of vegetarian options.

Secondly I did not do the tour. Please try finding an english tour and do the take the tour. I am sure it will be interesting with all the history.

Shop at Tversaky Street and the mall.  Last DAY! HAD TO.

Had dinner at Nobu. The food is overrated. 

Then walked around the streets enjoying the lights on display. All the streets in moscow around red ssqaure are decorated and lit so calls for a nice walk in the night.

Then walked to the red square. Must go and see it lit during the night.

Next day had my flight back home.

Had a quick meal at FRESH. It serves vegan food.

Booked a taxi to svo airport. Remember to fill in your terminal in the ride on the way back to the airport. 

Extra Information:
Airports have free trolleys to move the luggage around.

Immigration and security was easy. Not crowded for us.

Buy vodka from duty free. Its cheap.

Inflight veg food is pathetic.

Duty free shopping is not good with respect to stores. There isnt much.

Reached Delhi. There is a shuttle to take people from t3 to t1. Some 25 rupees per person. Took that and was still at the airport 2 hours earlier than boarding time.

Delhi to Mumbai flight was pleasant and on schedule.




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